A spiritual pilgrimage: In the Land of the Holy

With Christmas Day around the corner, PeopleAsia takes you on a rare journey of spiritual discovery as columnist Pepper Teehankee makes stops in the Holy Land and the realm of pharaohs — all as he retraces man’s footsteps in this exotic bastion of spiritual pursuit.

Text and photos by PEPPER TEEHANKEE

It was a journey that took us to the heart of faith, history and ancient civilization. It was more than a tour – it was a learning experience.

When Rajah Travel Corp. asked me if I had ever taken an Insight Tour, I said no, since I didn’t really like the rushed schedule and all those people crammed in a big bus in the last tour I had. But when they presented me with “The Land of the Prophets,” a 21-day tour covering parts of the Holy Land: Israel, Egypt and Jordan – I immediately said yes to this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

There were only 12 in the tour group, so seeing all the highlights of Tel Aviv such as the Habimah National Theatre, Rabin Square and Carmel Market was more leisurely than expected. And as we approached the ancient Port of Jaffa, a sense of anticipation began to swell within the group. Indeed, this excursion of hallowed proportions had begun.

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(Abu Simbel in Egpyt)

Where Jesus was born

As we explored Caesarea, a seaside town named after Caesar, we became witness to the magnificent Herod’s Theater where chariot races were held (and where slaves had to fight lions).

It was not all gore though. Sights were also aplenty as proven by our visit to Haifa (or Jaffa) where we saw the panoramic views of the land. And then, we made a stop at Acre to see the stunning fortress, old harbor area and a Crusader crypt. We later rode to Nazareth where we visited the Basilica of the Annunciation. All these and only one third of the day had passed!

Of course, a trip to the land of the prophets would never be complete without Galilee. There, we enjoyed a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee before heading to Capernaum where we saw more ruins, synagogues and the house of the first Apostle Peter. We also passed the River Jordan where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist before reaching the Dead Sea for a dip in the buoyant waters. Date picking — a wonderful break from the overwhelming beauty of the land and its stories — was also on the itinerary.

We drove by the mountains where the famous Dead Sea Scrolls were found and went to the nearby famed fortress of Masada, which was attacked by the Romans; King David’s alleged Tomb; the Room of the Last Supper and the Western Hall, also known as the Wailing Wall, in Jerusalem. We also had the opportunity to go on an optional tour of Bethlehem to see the Church of the Nativity. The tour also brought us to Yad-Vashem, the museum commemorating the Jewish people killed during the Holocaust.

The next day’s itinerary was promising as well with a visit to the garden of Gethsemane (the Agony in the Garden) and through the Old City to see the Temple Mount. We continued along the Via Dolorosa to see all the Stations of the Cross, ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The latter was built on the site of the Crucifixion. After that, we went back to the Old City of Jerusalem to do more shopping, before departing for Egypt the next day.

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(The Karnak Temple in Luxor)

To Pharaoh’s realm

Like the Jews of centuries past, we too crossed into Pharaoh’s land (by choice, fortunately). We arrived in Cairo and checked in to the Marriot, a beautiful hotel with function rooms and restaurants reminiscent of an old palace. It was a day of rest before flying out to Luxor, the former capital of the New Kingdom.

We boarded our ship in private moorings near the edge of town for our four-day cruise on the Nile River. We had our lunch heading over to ancient Thebes before digressing to Karnak, the largest temple complex ever built by man – constructed over a time period of 1,500 years.

As we explored the city, we began to see the same things that were shown on historical films about Egypt. To walk through the avenue of ram-headed sphinxes, past the statue of Rameses II and to stand in awe among the huge columns of the vast Hypostyle Hall was a great introduction to Egypt. After breakfast the next day, we crossed to the west bank of the Nile and stopped by the Colossi of Memnon. Two giant, seated figures are all that is left of Amon-Ofis III’s mortuary temple.

The land of pharaoh is also the kingdom of queens. Naturally, we made a stop at the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Valley of the Kings, the burial place of many of the New Kingdom Pharaohs. We also visited the beautifully preserved Temple of Horus (the Falcon God), possibly the most well-preserved in Egypt, before heading to Komombo, a temple dedicated to both Horus the Elder and Sobek (the Crocodile God). The Temple of Isis on the Island of Philae was not to be outshined too, thanks to restoration efforts that gave it a new lease on grandeur. Last but not least, we took an optional tour to Abu Simbel to see the two colossal temples.

The twin temples were originally carved out of the mountainside during the reign of Pharaoh Rameses II in 13th century BC as a lasting monument to himself and his queen Nefartiri. The complex was relocated in its entirety in 1968 to an artificial hill, high above the Aswan High Dam reservoir.

The rest of the trip was an embarrassment of architectural riches. We flew back to Cairo after that unforgettable Nile Cruise and wonderful experience in Abu Simbel. From Cairo, we drove to Memphis to see another massive statue of Rameses II and the alabaster sphinx. At Sakkara, we saw the Step Pyramid of Zoser, the oldest pyramid in the world. Of course the highlight of Cairo was a visit to the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx! Our last day in Cairo had us visit the Citadel, the great Mosque of Mohammed and the Egyptian Museum to see the splendid treasure recovered from the tomb of the boy King Tutankhamun.

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(The great Sphinx)

The promised land

Leaving Egypt was sad but we had Jordan to look forward to. Amman, Jordan’s capital was clean and spacious. We had arrived before dinner and had time to rest for the next day’s trip. The trip to Jerash reveals the most beautifully-preserved Greco-Roman city still in existence. The half-day tour to this beautiful excavation was a real tease as only around 35 percent of the city had been excavated. Still, that area alone proved to be massive and impressive on its own. We drove back to Amman for a city tour of the huge Roman Amphitheatre and the Citadel Hill. We then took a long drive to Petra, the setting of yet another splendid day in the Land of Prophets.

Passage to this lost city is limited to a narrow gorge, the Siq, whose walls rise up 200 meters. As you emerge from the path, you see the magnificent Treasury. It’s carved out of solid rock and stands over 40 meters high. We soon found our way through the canyon to explore the Roman Amphitheatre and the ancient Royal tombs.

From Petra, we followed the Kings Highway to visit Shobak, a 12th century crusader fortress, and Mount Nebo where Moses saw the Promised Land. Israel could be seen from Mount Nebo. We stopped by Madabato to see an old mosaic map dating around 560 AD. This map is the oldest map that details the Holy Land. It was a touching scene, a grand conclusion to a trip that has stirred my soul in all the right places.

As the tour came to an end, I couldn’t help but feel privileged to have been part of such an insightful vacation. I had seen three amazing countries with great history and culture, all in one tour. I could not choose my favorite as each country had something different to offer. It was an educational, enjoyable and comprehensive trip and I am glad to have said yes to this tour of the Holy Land – one I’ll forever remember as simply divine.

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(The Treasury in Petra)