As one sets foot in South Africa—with its abundance of breathtaking scenery, awe-inspiring nature and wildlife, and rich history and cultural diversity—one’s life is bound to be altered somehow. Perhaps it is this “rainbow nation’s” palpable energy that stirs the soul and captivates the hearts of many who seek an experience of a lifetime.
EDITOR’S NOTE: This travel piece first appeared on the Oct.-Nov. issue of PeopleAsia magazine.
By Pinky S. Icamen
In South Africa’s sun-soaked east coast, cradled by the province of KwaZulu-Natal, lies Durban—a dynamic coastal city that boasts an exciting mix of culture, art and environment with a taste of African, Eastern and Western influences. It is true that this city, with its more than 300 days of sunshine a year, is sometimes overlooked for the South African sojourn staples Cape Town and Johannesburg. Still, Durban’s magnificent backdrop of majestic sunrises and sunsets alone should make world travelers think otherwise.
In the middle of South African winter in July, Durban Tourism invited members of the Philippine media for the first time to bask in the Durban sun and experience the city dubbed “the warmest place to be.” Yes, even in mild mid-winter, Durban emits warmth—felt in its weather, sea temperature and its people.
Beyond the popularity of its golden beaches that stretch along the massive Indian Ocean, its waves that are well-loved by surfers from around the world, and exciting watersports to experience, Durban definitely has more up its sleeve for those who are willing to heed the call of the golden South African sun.
A much-awaited ‘mane’ event
One of the things that puts this cosmopolitan city on the map is its yearly staging of Vodacom Durban July, reportedly the biggest and most sought-after horseracing event in Africa.
Every year, starting from the days leading to the much-anticipated race, Durban is bursting at the seams with the who’s who of entertainment, society and fashion from all over the African continent; ready to take part in the 122-year-old tradition that is Durban July. More than 55,000 spectators gather at the Greyville Racecourse to witness South Africa’s finest thoroughbreds compete.
The event is also known for being a day of grandstanding sartorial parade. This year, with the theme “Stars of Africa,” attendees “dressed to kill” and owned the racecourse grounds as if it were their runway. Exclusive marquees (some by-invitation only) dot the grounds where guests partied with local and international celebrities and VVIPs.
Durban July also featured a Lakes Lifestyle Village, a public area in the racecourse grounds with pop-up restaurants and bars and tote betting facilities. This was also where the main stage was set that featured DJs, local musicians and fashion shows by up-and-coming fashion designers. Durban Tourism deputy head Winile Mntungwa shared with PeopleAsia at the sidelines of the event that local fashion designers, among others, benefit immensely from Durban July as they are given this massive platform to showcase their works.
There can never be enough revelry during Durban July. After the races, the festivities continued not just on the racecourse grounds but also in different parts of Durban, where several after-parties ensued, most of them lasted until early morning the next day. Still recovering from the after parties the previous night, revelers got ready midday for a “shut down party” that was held at the Conde Nast Traveller-recognized Max’s Lifestyle restaurant in Umlazi Township. Partygoers, always dressed in their fashionable best, look forward to these parties, which are not complete without good food, free-flowing drinks, and DJs spinning the night away with pulsating beats and electronic dance music.
Melting pot of cultures & rich history
Embedded in Durban’s DNA is a unique blend of cultural influences that charms its way to the hearts and minds of travelers. This is beside the fact that the people of Durban, most of them speak English as their second language, are laid-back and warm, which sums up what the city has in store for its visitors. This interesting mix of influences is found in architecture and lifestyle, especially in its cuisine.
Durban is fast becoming a foodies’ (and eaters’) paradise because of its diverse food offerings that are showcased in charming fine-dining and casual restaurants and hole-in-the-walls that pop up in the city. Aside from being the home of the original Nando’s that has gained a massive cult following particularly in the UK, Durban boasts traditional braai (barbecue), exotic meats, modern western-inspired dishes and its world-famous Durban curry, a must-try.
One must not leave the city without trying the Bunny Chow, a hollowed out loaf of bread filled with piping hot curry (in lamb, chicken, beef or vegetarian variant). Curries are popular in Durban because it is part of the legacy that the Indians brought to the city when they arrived there in the 18th century. Today, the highest concentration of Indians living outside of India is reportedly found in Durban.
Seen in its city center are Victorian, Edwardian and Georgian architecture alongside modern residential and office buildings. Down by the beachfront, Art Deco buildings are showstoppers, most especially when hit by the golden afternoon sun. Durban’s defining landmark today is the stunning Moses Mabhida Stadium, which hosts world-class sporting and cultural events.
These visual delights are best witnessed aboard the double-decker Ricksha Bus that takes tourists for a three-hour tour around the city’s main points of interests, including the uShaka Marine World, said to be the largest marine theme park in Africa. Situated at the end of Durban’s famed Golden Mile, the marine theme park has an aquarium, a shopping and dining area called uShaka Village Walk. It also offers up-close experience with marine life with snorkeling and shark-cage diving.
One can also see different cultural influences when shopping in Durban. Sophisticated malls like the Gateway Theatre in the Umhlanga Rocks area are equally popular as the street markets like the Victoria Street Market as they perfectly tease those who are on the hunt for anything and everything South African.
People of Durban are fun loving and they give importance to leisure and entertainment. But even more important for them is preserving their history and culture. In its Valley of 1,000 Hills, known as an exciting adventure hub in South Africa, are cultural villages and pheZulu Safari Park, where traditional Zulu dances are performed by the locals daily.
In the nearby Inanda Township, some 20 kilometers outside of Durban’s central business district, is the Inanda Heritage Trail, which include some of the most historical sites in the region. One of them is the Ohlange Institute founded by John Dube, the first president of the African National Congress. This is also the site where the late Nelson Mandela cast his historic vote in South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1994.
Beyond amazing wildlife
In Durban, awe-inspiring scenery abound. What’s amazing is just a few hours drive away from the city, one can complete one’s South African experience in Big 5 game reserves like Thanda Safari Private Game Reserve, located in the town of Hluhluwe.
At the luxury game reserve, owned by Swedish couple Christin and Dan Olofsson, are three types of accommodation — Safari Lodge (exquisite bush suites, Tented Camp (luxury safari tents) and Villa iZulu, an Afro-chic private luxury homestead where our group stayed for the night.
Nature’s magnificence reveals itself at Thanda, especially during the early morning and afternoon/evening game drives. Together with our guide Vincent Hindson and a tracker Derrick Myeni, the group hopped on an open-air jeep and witnessed wildlife unfold as we were driven through the lush surroundings of the reserve. The game was to find the animals (impala, kudu, giraffe, nyala, and more) and spot the Big 5, four of which our group encountered (elephant, lion, Cape buffalo, rhinoceros). It was the elusive leopard that we missed.
According to Vincent, winter is a nice time to go on a safari because it is dry and the surroundings are lush. One of the things that makes Thanda different from other game reserves is it only allows very few cars during a game drive in the 14,500-hectare property—a maximum of seven. And during sightings, only a maximum of two are allowed to keep the disturbance to the wildlife at a minimum.
During the morning and afternoon/evening drives, prepare to be wowed by the beyond breathtaking hues of sunrise and sunset at Thanda. This magnificent portrait of nature was best experienced in a bush stop (complete with drinks and snacks) on a hill that has a 360-degree vista of the reserve. The perfect cap for the group’s evening game drive was a rustic campfire dinner that featured meats including wildebeest and kingklip, commonly found in South Africa.
City of sun
On a clear winter day, Durban allows one to see the city’s vivid colors, whether through an uninterrupted view of the Indian Ocean and its irresistible sunrise that slices the horizon every morning, or through its bustling markets filled with spices, beadwork and curio shops.
There is so much to discover in this city that it lures you to come back and experience it all over again. Once one has received a kiss from the luscious Durban sun, one is changed. It’s truly hard to resist the allure of Durban, where the deep and rich hues of the sun warmly greet those who give a proper salutation to her majestic glory.
