Nuuk Taal Lake Hotel’s signature restaurant offers day trippers and guests Nordic cuisine and Danish dishes not commonly found in Metro Manila, let alone in Tagaytay. And the best part is that each dish has its own distinct Pinoy twist.
By GRACE B. DIEZ
Photography by DIX PEREZ
A mere 90-minute drive away from Metro Manila, Ilulli is a rare gem of a discovery this side of the tropics. On top of its unique offering consisting of Nordic-style Filipino cuisine, the restaurant provides diners with breathtaking views of Taal Lake and its iconic volcano.
Housed within a boutique hotel situated in Laurel, Batangas, Ilulli evokes a range of contrasting emotions, thanks to its modern yet rustic interiors that are also both eclectic and traditional. Overall, it succeeds in offering harried city dwellers a quick and accessible escape that culminates in an exciting culinary experience.
The birth of “Ilulli”
Nordic cuisine isn’t commonly found in Metro Manila, but more so in Tagaytay. This alone is enough to entice and pique the curiosity of both day trippers and long-staying guests to this cool mountain destination. It’s also a testament to the Nielsen family, who owns the property, and its members’ penchant for travel and adventure.
Opened at the height of the pandemic, Ilulli’s mission is simple: to bring in Nordic flavors to the table without alienating the local palate. After all, Nordic cuisine is originally based on the concept of “foraging,” which presumably enabled Scandinavian chefs of long ago to utilize available local ingredients.
“It’s simply Nordic flavors being introduced to the local palate. In Greenland, winters are longer and harsher than most northern countries, so farming is very challenging and limited. Food is inspired by creating something from what is available. It’s making use of what’s given to them,” says Mary Pilares, resident manager of Nuuk Taal Lake.
The name “Ilulli” was derived from Ilullisat, a town in Greenland and a popular tourist destination because of its proximity to the Ilullisat Icejford, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its enormous icebergs. Ilullisat experiences tundra climate, which means long, cold winters. As a result, locals resort to “foraging,” which, in turn, has taught them for generations to become creative.
But make no mistake, the restaurant is more than just about foraging. Since it has access to abundant ingredients all year round, people behind it make a deliberate creative attempt to marry Nordic and Filipino favorites.
Katleya Nielsen, co-founder of Nuuk and Ilulli, moved back to the Philippines from a successful financial career in London to realize her vision. To prepare for this new chapter in her life, she studied at Enderun College, taking up Les Roches Postgraduate in Hospitality Management and Culinary Arts.
“I had to undergo it to ensure that we would be able to provide diners with a true reflection of our home’s original story by bringing my family’s two cultures together — Filipino and Danish,” she says. Today, her vision is slowly coming to fruition.
Unique dining experience
The parade of Nordic-Filipino flavors at Ilulli begins with one of the restaurant’s most requested dishes: the Nordic Continental Breakfast, which consists of rye bread, scrambled eggs, salmon gravlax, prawn skagen, granola parfait and lingonberry jam. Sweet and savory at the same time, the dish is quite a tasty and welcome treat.
The salmon gravlax, a Scandinavian specialty, is easily the highlight of this breakfast offering. Salt-cured instead of smoked, this fish component tastes fresh and divine.
A visit to the famed Taal Lake will not be complete without Filipino favorites such as Ilulli’s Silog menu, especially the Beef Tapa rice bowl. The delicious combination of sinangag, with its rich aroma of golden sauteed garlic mixed with rice, and house-cured beef tapa is not to be missed. The fried egg and pickles on the side complete this well-loved Pinoy breakfast.
Another classic Nordic dish with a Filipino twist is the Prawn Skagen and Tilapia Goujon. Categorized under Smorrebrod, a Danish classic, which means “open sandwich,” the meal is served on buttered house-made rye bread and green salad. The dish consists of scandi prawn salad, local tilapia, herbed panko, Danish remoulade, radish, scallion and fish roe.
The Sisig Rice Bowl is also a must-try. The familiar comfort of enjoying traditional sisig with fried egg, pickled green chili, fresh white onions and red or white rice, which uses beef brisket instead of pork, is certainly worth savoring.
One of the snack highlights at Ilulli is the Dill Shrimp Pizza, which is made up of bechamel, dill, mozzarella, parmesan dill cheese, garlic shrimp, parsley, chili flakes and crispy onion rings. It is perfect for families and friends who want to share a quick bite.
We were also introduced to Frikadeller, a beloved Danish national dish and one of Ilulli’s bestsellers. Considered a go-to comfort food in Denmark, the dish consists of Danish-style meatballs, caramelized potatoes, brunsovs, lingonberry jam and red cabbage.
Prior to joining Ilulli, Reena Babasa, Ilulli’s head chef, spent five years working at a restaurant specializing in modern European cuisine. The task of coming up with a Nordic-Filipino menu that would appeal to a broad range of clientele has been both a challenging and rewarding experience.
“Aside from the fusion of modern European with local dishes, we also want to make people feel like it’s home — that’s one of our goals. We may be in the Philippines, but the way we do our dishes is based on international standards. In keeping with the Nordic concept of foraging, we’re trying as much as possible to use what is locally available,” she says.
“We also use a great deal of ‘homemade’ ingredients. We’d like to do it ourselves in order to achieve the taste and quality we want,” she adds.
Ilulli also partnered with Toby’s Estate for their coffee offerings. In addition, the restaurant is expanding their menu by serving mocktails, cocktails and a more comprehensive wine list for guests to enjoy.
“We came up with mocktails because we don’t just cater to drinkers. We cater to people who want to enjoy their downtime without getting tipsy. We’d like to give them a nice and beautifully designed blend collectively called Hygge Blends,” Pilares explains.
“Every plate that we serve here is like a warm hug. It brings comfort but then, at the same time, it’s really [also about the] flavors,” she adds with pride.
Ilulli’s chefs also create dinner specials that change either weekly or monthly. The Chef’s Seasonal Specials menu, for instance, is designed to showcase the featured chef’s passion and creativity. Among the stellar dishes featured in the past were Grilled Lamb Chops, Pan-Seared Salmon, Foie Gras on Toast and Black Opal Wagyu, among others.
“Cooking with love. That’s what we are all about. The results are different. If you’re happy, you will be able to create it, and create it beautifully. The cooking should be inspired and not required. It’s cooking that comes from the heart,” Babasa concludes.
