To say that a trip to Iceland is life-changing is an understatement. It made the author ponder on life as she and her family chased after the Northern Lights, witnessed nature’s awesome as well as unbridled fury, and basked in the contrasting warmth and cold, of this volcanic island nation.
By CHRISTINE S. DAYRIT
“There are two faces to Iceland, a fresh bright summer and a white, blue winter,” said prominent Icelandic designer Sverrir Björnsson. “Between them, everything changes, indomitable weather and magnificent landscapes.”
I couldn’t have said it better. Our decision to go on a family trip to Iceland, dubbed as the magical and mystical land of fire and ice, proved to be one of the best decisions we’ve made so far in our lives. Iceland during winter offered us a chance to experience such moments — nature’s pristine beauty as well as its humbling power.
Iceland, they say, is not just about the Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights. Rather, it’s about the experience one goes through in order to witness these visual spectacles.
Aurora Borealis up close and personal
by Ragnar Sigurosson
The Northern Lights are impressive enough in photographs, but witnessing them yourself in person for the first, second and perhaps even third time in your life can be truly life-defining. Watching the lights flicker and dance across the sky, swirling like a kaleidoscope of irregular shapes and colors that illuminate mountains and lava fields below is an out-of-this-world experience.
Envision a gentle burst of pastel hues that slowly and dramatically transform into darker shades of green, blue and even fuchsia, and you’ll understand why. Chasing the Aurora Borealis was thrilling as it was magical.
Disembarking from the tour bus in the middle of the night, our whole group — composed of my niece architect Nikki Boncan Buensalido, her husband architect Jason Buensalido and their two young daughters Annika and Nadia; Nikki’s best friend Patty Que-Veloso with her husband Anton Veloso and their children Luis and Mikee, and mother Menchu Que; my eldest sister Jaqui Dayrit and her best friend Dr. Marite Vergara; my best friend Büm Tenorio and I — was mesmerized by the sublime, almost surreal atmosphere.
In the darkness, while huddled together in the vast field, the lights slowly appeared in the sky with blinding opulence.
It has been said that an unseen magnetic force enters both poles of the earth, creating this amazing and picturesque experience. I have somehow studied how to spot the Aurora in Tromso, Norway years ago and was told that even NASA can’t accurately pinpoint when she will emerge. In short, you may chase after the Aurora all you like, but she will only show herself to you when she chooses to. You don’t find the Aurora, she finds you!
And the Aurora found us in Iceland — on our second and third attempts. The first stop in the wintry outskirt of Reykjavik proved unsuccessful. Snoe, our Icelander tour guide, cheered us up, saying the night, at 9 p.m., was still young. And the vastness of the city amid pitch darkness and, despite the -14 degree Celsius weather, proved to be welcoming.
A kaleidoscope of colors at the Glacier Lagoon Jökulsárlón; The dramatic crater of volcanic fire and movement of Baugur at Holuhraun area /Photos by Ragnar Sigurosson and Daoi Haroarson
On our second stop, some 45 minutes away from our first venue, stretches of cirrus clouds were apparent on a starless night. The Aurora was not visible in her greenish glory right away. But we could already sense that we’ve hit the jackpot when under the lens of our cellphones, white clouds soon turned green. As we stared at the clouds, the Northern Lights began to waltz in the sky, glorious green ribbons seeming to come out of nowhere. Some of us cried.
We left the site not until the Aurora bid goodbye. But for 10 glorious minutes she was ours, or, to be more accurate about it, we were hers — transfixed, awed and at a loss for words as she put on a show.
On to our second chase on a dark plain almost two hours away from the last sighting. This time, the Aurora was a curtain of pale green above us. Stationary in their magnificence, the lights, like a cascading waterfalls, hung over the sky. What an experience!
Europe’s most magnificent falls
Gullfoss Falls in South Iceland; Blue Lagoon’s warm, mineral-rich hot springs
When daylight hit wintry Iceland the following day, we were again witness to another force of nature: the powerful Gullfoss Falls gushing dramatically down the gorges and propped against a gigantic mountain. Considered as the most magnificent waterfalls in Europe, with some even claiming that it surpasses even the Niagara in the United States and Canada, the Gullfoss provides a solemn rush of icy water that creates a mise en scéne that represents the beauty of nature’s dreams.
Gullfoss, commonly called as the “Golden Falls,” was enchanting. It was as though the waterfalls was spilling forgone secrets of the land. In both its ferocity and fury, it is said that no waterfalls can match Gullfoss.
I can never forget such scenes, which remind me of Roland Joffé’s The Mission, a Robert de Niro and Jeremy Irons starrer where a brave priest spreads the Christian faith to the natives, but loses his life for the Lord in the ultimate act of sacrifice. Another scene that comes to mind are the mighty veils of Victoria Falls in Tanzania and Iguazu Falls in Brazil and Argentina, whose thunderous roar can be heard thousands of miles away. This cinematic grandeur came alive as our group stood before Iceland’s iconic falls.
Aside from the Gullfoss, some of the most astonishing waterfalls in Iceland include Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. Seljalandsfoss offered an entirely different kind of untold magic. This divine waterfalls allowed us to walk behind its flowing waters, as if the world was suspended in time. And then there was Skógafoss, whose gushing waters produced a nearly impervious rainbow that provided allure in every direction.
As we explored these powerful waterfalls, the dynamic geysers surrounding them took turns to defy the earth’s gravity, bursting magnificently towards the sky. Our group waited patiently by one of the geysers and soon enough, pressure from the heat forced boiling water to burst from the ground and zoom like a rocket into the horizon.
I told our group that the sight reminded me of one of my favorite Filipino movies, Day and Night, which was completely filmed in Iceland.
Another site worth visiting is the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa located in a volcanic terrain. The hot springs complete the duality in character of cold Iceland. Blue Lagoon’s warm, mineral-rich waters stood in fierce contrast to the country’s frigid climate, offering both physical restoration and a sense of spiritual serenity. Most of us in the group enjoyed bathing in its warm waters, playfully placing mud on our bodies while being unmindful of the frosty weather. The experience was both surreal and sensational.
Glacier exploration
When it comes to hiking, one of our most notable explorations was a visit to the icy caves of Europe’s largest glacier — Vatnajökull. We explored the icy terrain, feeling like we were a bunch of little kids trying to make sense of another world. As we treaded into the frozen cave, we could almost hear Elsa of Frozen fame belting “Let it go. Let it go.” In Iceland, the glaciers, geysers, Aurora Borealis, waterfalls and mud baths exist alongside each other. For how long? Nobody knows.
In the land of fire and ice, volcanic explosions and ice avalanches take turns in symbiotic synergies. Land expands and disappears, while ice falls only to form in other areas. This contrasting colors of fire and ice, as volcanic eruptions shape glaciers, and geysers sculpt the land, display the beating heart of Iceland.
Iceland is more than its sceneries, it is a land of tales — from elves and fairies, gnomes and giants. These legends define the bond of the people and their heritage. Reykjavik, the capital, added a different charm to the journey. Did I mention that in Reykjavik, vibrant houses, relaxing cafés (ask for the famed Iceland hotdog and ice cream), and futuristic-looking churches combine tradition and modernity quite seamlessly?
To say that this trip to Iceland was life-changing for us is an understatement. It made me ponder anew about life.
In Iceland, I learned that there is only one thing that’s certain: and that is that nothing in life is certain. Much like the Northern Lights, what you see today may not be there tomorrow. While you still can, chase after your very own Northern Lights.
