It is a “north-meets-south situation” at Binulo, says its owner. While she and her collaborators “copy-pasted” the original menu from the Pampanga-based restaurant, they added, for instance, Tagaytay-style Bulalo as one of their offerings.
By Maan D’Asis Pamaran
Travelers from Metro Manila often plan a trip up north to Pampanga to experience its gustatory delights, but there is now an authentic Kapampangan restaurant that has been transplanted to Cavite. Augustine Roa and Aniela Tolentino used to make that trip to the Binulo restaurant in Mabalacat, Pampanga to enjoy its dishes. They loved it so much that they decided to bring Binulo to Tagaytay.
Aniela recounts, “We used to drive from Manila to go to Binulo, which is owned by a family friend. We soon wanted to bring the restaurant to the south, in Tagaytay, so that more people can have the opportunity to try the cuisine that has been passed down from generation to generation. We talked to the owner and luckily, she agreed. She is a traditional businesswoman, who had no plans of expanding, but we were able to convince her so that more Filipinos in this part of the country can experience authentic Kapampangan food.”
Good food for sharing
It is a “north-meets-south situation” at Binulo, says Aniela. While they “copy-pasted” the original menu from the Pampanga-based restaurant, they added, for instance, Tagaytay Bulalo as one of their offerings. “It is one of our best-sellers,” she adds.
Something that is uniquely Kapampangan that guests can experience is the Binulo-style of cooking, which involves the use of bamboo as a vessel for the Pangat na Ulang or river prawns stewed in a sour lemongrass broth. Brought fresh from Pampanga, Aniela says, the delicacy is cooked in a bamboo shoot that is placed over the fire and served piping hot on the table. It is an Aeta method of cooking meat, fish and rice inside bamboo stalks, and serves as a culinary bridge to Filipino indigenous roots.
Many of the dishes that Filipinos are familiar with originated from Pampanga and they are on Binulo’s Tagaytay menu. These include the sinfully delicious Sisig, which is served sans egg or mayonnaise and the Kare-Kare with its rich sauce made with real ground peanuts.
If one wants to go all out on fat and flavor, there’s Chicharon or Pititian in Kapampangan and Chicharon Bulaklak. The crunchy goodness from the two featured offerings are perfect appetizers or bar chow that go with the Papa Bolo craft beer. Those who opt to go healthy will enjoy the Paco Salad, with fresh young fern fronds served with a house-made dressing.
Other mains to try are the Morcon, Crispy Tadyang and the Binukadkad na Hito or Tilapia, which is crisp-fried fish served with Buro or fermented rice best wrapped in mustasa leaves.
Those who want a taste of Pampanga’s exotic food offerings can try the Kalderetang Kambing (stewed goat meat), Camaro (fried mole crickets) and Batute (deep-fried stuffed frog). Kilayin, another Pampanga recipe of pork meat, liver and lungs is on the menu along with Tidtad or the Kapampangan version of Dinuguan.
For dessert, there’s local sweet treats such as Tibuk-Tibuk, which is the restaurant’s creamy version of Maja Blanca. Then there’s Sampelot or sticky, chewy rice balls in coconut milk that Tagalogs refer to as Bilo-Bilo, and the soul-satisfying Tsokolate’t Suman, which is hot tablea chocolate and carabao’s milk with Pampanga’s special glutinous rice.
Proudly Filipino
Aniela calls their concept a “rebranded franchise,” departing from the original restaurant’s look and logo to come up with a fresher take. “We wanted to give the space a homey, natural and organic feel that is modern and fresh at the same time. We used wood elements and greenery together with big bright windows to offer a warm welcoming environment.” She adds that they are planning to open the outdoor dining area during the cooler months.
For those who want to bring home a taste of Pampanga from Tagaytay, the restaurant has a selling area where one can find pasalubong items such as the Pititian, homemade bagoong, Pampanga longanisa and other processed meats, atchara and macapuno balls.
Aniela, who represents Cavite’s 8th district in Congress, says it is very important for more Filipinos to discover the country’s regional cuisine. “It is good that we are giving our diners the opportunity to learn more about the cultural richness of Pampanga. Serving this kind of food that is cooked in their traditional way is an opportunity to educate customers about the origins of our food. It makes you proud of our shared heritage and culture and opens more opportunities for more discoveries. There is so much more we can learn about the Philippine culinary scene, and we are glad to bring part of Pampanga to Tagaytay.”
Binulo is located at Station House, Silang Junction South, Tagaytay City. For the full menu, visit www.binulo.com or check its official social media accounts.
