By JOSE PAOLO S. DELA CRUZ
Renowned Spanish Chef Chele Gonzalez gives diners a culinary peek into his childhood through his newest restaurant Cantabria, where he serves dishes inspired by his hometown in the northern coast of Spain.
On the top floor of the Westin Manila at the heart of the Ortigas Business District, one is transported to a warmly lit space, whose walls are adorned by artworks and photos of a quaint coastal community.
This is Cantabria, a province in the northern coast of Spain known for its unparalleled culinary treasures. Blessed with a bountiful ocean, a multitude of greeneries and striking mountains,. the region offers some of the best seafood in the world, as well as a variety of meats.
But to Chef Chele Gonzalez, Cantabria is so much more than pictures on the wall — or the name of his newest restaurant, for that matter.
“This is my hometown. Many of the dishes in the menu are the things I grew up eating,” says Chef Chele during an intimate event held at Cantabria. And what a hearty childhood it must’ve been!
Known mostly for his tapas and degustation masterpieces, Chef Chele does not disappoint with his extensive selection for Cantabria. Among our favorites is the creamy chili crab croquette, whose lime mayonnaise dressing added just the right acidity to the dish. The braised beef and puccini ravioli, on the other hand, came with a hint of sweetness that can grow popular among Filipino diners.
Aesthetically though, it is the deep-fried tonkatsu sandwich topped with caviar that made our mouths water with one look. Piece of advice: make sure to take a bite of the perfectly baked bread, the meat and caviar in one go, to experience its full explosion of flavors.
According to the service staff, all of whom have been burning the midnight oil for the restaurant’s opening last month, Chef Chele did not want to serve the usual Spanish fare for Cantabria. And while there is paella on the menu, it also left room for somewhat similar options cooked with a twist.
What it has though is Arroz Negro de Viera Y Chipiron, a black ink rice dish with baby squid, grilled scallops and aioli sauce. Not a Paella Negra, mind you, the arroz negro could somehow be described as a cross between a paella and a risotto, presenting a multitude of mild, tangy flavors further enhanced by the fresh seafood. The texture is softer than the typical paella, the taste creamier.
The piece de resistance, however, is the restaurant’s signature fish, Rodaballo a la Parrilla (grilled wild turbot fish). Drawn from Cantabria region’s powerful waves which face the Atlantic, the wild turbot is a hero catch or a sea gem surfacing on a plate. The fish was served with much fanfare, with Chef Chele himself cutting the fish up to size and serving it to excited guests. It was moist and very lightly seasoned, a dish that will certainly be enjoyed by those who prefer to taste more fish than herbs and spices.
There’s the other seafood, too, which Cantabria is known for. “We’re putting our own touch on these ocean bounty with unique dishes like the Tosta De Anchoa Y Berenjena (Cantabrian premium anchovies, baguette toast, and charred eggplant),” says Chef Chele. “Other seafood delights include Mero al Horno con Patata Panadera (baked grouper, roasted potatoes, garlic, and parsley emulsion), Ostra dela Casa (signature oyster), Tartare de Oyster Salmon (oyster and salmon tartare, ikura, ceviche dressing), Tiradito de Pargo (sliced snapper, avocado and lime salsa, radish and cilantro oil), and more.”
And of course, what kind of childhood wouldn’t have room for dessert? On that note, Chef Chele wraps up the meal by serving a couple of desserts such as Sobas Pasiego, Cantabria’s own version of a cheesecake and the Toffe Cacao Avellana Y Cafe, which is a deconstructed cake with mousse, chocolate sponge and caramelized hazelnut. While the cheesecake is also delicious and light, the toffe and chocolate dessert takes the prize with its sweetness, texture and overall mixture of flavors.
Located on the Roof Level of the hotel, this dining venue is poised to become a new epicurean hot spot, as the only Spanish restaurant by Chef Chele Gonzalez in Metro Manila, offering a unique experience weaved through its ambiance, signature food, and exceptional collection of signature cocktails and vino.
Asked what led the way for this partnership, General Manager Alexander Dietzsch shares, “A Spanish restaurant has always been in the plans for our hotel, and we wanted to collaborate with a chef who can bring an authentic experience to the table. We searched far and wide and we didn’t find anyone in Manila who is as dedicated to the concept as Chele.”
Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez is open from 6:00 p.m to 10:00 p.m. For reservations and inquiries, e-mail cantabria.manila@westin.com or contact +63 962 533 7957.
