Photos and Text by JOSE PAOLO S. DELA CRUZ
You won’t find Godzilla in Fukui, but you’ll certainly unearth wonder after wonder in this multi-faceted prefecture along the Sea of Japan.
After an hour-long flight from Haneda in Tokyo, we find ourselves in the quaint Komatsu Airport, located between Kanazawa and Fukui City in Central Japan. From the modest size of the airport alone, we could already guess that Fukui may not be as rambunctious as its more popular cousins Tokyo, Osaka, or Nagoya, to name a few. But that is not to say, it cannot roar.
Immediately our eyes were drawn to one of the benches of the quiet airport, where the anthropomorphic likeness of a certain Dr. Dinosaur sat reading a book. A motion-sensitive, animatronic raptor roared across the room. Fukui Prefecture, after all, is known to many as “Dinosaur Kingdom,” and it is made known to tourists the moment they land at Komatsu.
Meanwhile, there was a low grumbling in my stomach, as my inner raptor craved for some authentic Japanese cuisine.
Sushi and ancient creatures
Well, that craving was soon addressed by the Machi Sushi Ichimonme, where we had a 10-course omakase dinner that featured fresh and aged seafood. From hamachi to salmon, mackerel to tuna, all these were served on perfectly seasoned red vinegar rice. Each course was prepared in front of us by two young chefs who sliced and torched the sushi with their bare hands, before serving them with some sake. The dinner, which lasted for a good three hours, is perfect for groups looking to have a slow, leisurely meal in a quaint place.
Enjoying an omakase set at Machi Sushi Ichimonme
Shortly before returning to the Courtyard by Marriott Fukui where we were billeted for the night, we took a stroll in the nearby train station and the famous Fukui Station Dinosaur Plaza. If kids today are anything like us in our Jurassic Park era in the ’90s, then they will certainly have a kick seeing these life-size figures of the Fukuiraptor, Fukuisaurus and Fukuititan — all endemic to the region once upon a Cretaceous period — especially since they all roar and move every thirty minutes!
But of course, the piece de resistance, so far as dinosaurs are concerned, would have to be the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum. In this experience, the journey was quite as thrilling as the destination, especially since it started with us boarding a virtual reality bus, aptly called “Wow Ride Ikkosa! Fukui-go.”
Inside the bus, we found walls and ceiling that have been covered in screens. As the bus moved, so did the images on these screens, creating the illusion that we were, indeed, driving in modern-day Fukui, where formerly extinct dinosaurs had been reborn.
Very soon, we found ourselves partaking in a wild dino-chase between an anthropologist and his nemesis, as our bus was dragged onto hilltops by pterodactyls, submerged in a sea with mosasaurs, or battled it out with a tyrannosaurus rex, all thanks to the wonders of extended reality (XR) technology.
As soon as good defeated evil on our bus screens, we arrived at the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum (FPDM) after an entertaining hour-long ride. And we literally had a breath of fresh air as the crisp autumn breeze welcomed us as we descended from the bus.
Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum
Home to 80 percent of Japan’s fossils, Fukui was — and continues to be — instrumental in advancing the country’s study of paleontology. Inside, we saw one of the world’s largest and most famous collection of fossils, alongside replicated skeletons of the majestic creatures that once roamed this side of the planet.
In “Dinosaur Hall,” where a total of 50 dinosaur skeletons were mounted with full-scale specimens, we found 10 skeletons containing a significant amount of original fossils. Among them is the gigantic Camarasaurus, wherein 90 percent of the original fossil materials were displayed on the ground, as if it were freshly unearthed.
It got even better from there as we explored a labyrinth of skeletons, both man-made and real, as we ogled animatronic dinosaurs that roared to our delight. Expert tip, spot the skeletons with metal support. They are most likely to be made of real dinosaur fossils, since the bones have grown brittle over time and would therefore need external support to be mounted.
The experience ended with a short film-viewing at the end of the tour, where guests of a certain age finally rested their weary legs, while the young ones screamed with glee as dinosaurs of all shapes and sizes battled it out in animated screens that could rival your go-to specialty cinema in terms of sound and visual clarity.
Spiritual sojourn
Dinosaurs aside, Fukui also offers visitors a chance to relax, unwind and even do some well-deserved (or long overdue) soul-searching. And of all the places we had visited, perhaps there’s nothing more suited for this than the Eiheiji Temple, which is considered as one of the most important bastions of Soto Zen Buddhism.
Completed in 1244, Eiheiji Temple is comprised of 70 structures, as can be seen on a painted tapestry near the entrance (which took 4.5 years to complete). The intricately detailed wood-and-stone temples, ensconced in a cedar forest, calm the senses instantly with their open-air and spacious designs.
A colleague, who joined the monks for a ceremony before dawn, also told us that the experience gave him “a sense of spiritual enlightenment” and “much-needed pause.” A word to the wise, please refrain from taking photos of the monks on-site, as a sign of respect to their faith and calling.
For the less spiritual types, this writer included, I “found” myself while bathing in the onsen of the nearby Hakujukan. A cross between a hotel and a ryokan, the 18-room structure was built using cedar from the grounds of the temple.
The idyllic Hakujukan built along the Eiheiji River
The structure glowed warm amber in the middle of the night from the outside. Inside, we relished staying in rooms decorated with alcoves (tokonoma) that feature a variety of flowers. And while the rooms were, indeed, relaxing to stay in, one must not make the mistake of missing the Hakujukan’s bath, especially on account of being body-conscious. Yes, all guests are required to be fully naked for this experience, but as long as you don’t stare and keep to your boundaries, you’ll be fine.
The best way to enjoy it, in my opinion, is to visit at night, and take a dip at the outdoor portion of the bath. The five-degree weather from the neck up created a relaxing contrast with the 40-degree water that soaked the rest of my body, as I spent about half an hour communing with nature, lost in the symphony of the nearby Eiheiji river and cicadas.
A similar experience awaited us in the coming days at the Yuraku in Awara. Unlike Hakujukan, Yuraku seems a bit older and bigger, akin to a warm house that has been lived in for years. Its baths, however, were much bigger and decorated with natural stones and are better enjoyed in daylight. The inn even has its own game room, a manga room and even daybeds where families and friends can simply hang out, while dressed in their traditional kimonos, which the establishment provides.
And then, of course, there’s the mouthwatering feast at Yuraku, including the perfectly steamed almost unseasoned male snow crabs (also known as the Echizen crabs). More than all these, the Yuraku lives up to its family-style reputation, thanks to the warm and cheerful service of its staff. Indeed, it felt like staying with relatives, minus the drama.
Castles and curiosities
Like many prefectures in Japan, Fukui also has its fair share of iconic structures. Among them is the six-story Katsuyama Castle Museum, whose facade is famous for featuring a dragon on every side. Unlike castles from, say, Matsumoto, Osaka or Kyoto though, Katsuyama’s was established fairly recently by wealthy businessman and Katusyama native Kiyoshi Tada, who built the structure in 1992.
Since then, the castle has served as a private museum where one can find 700 years’ worth of tools and weaponry on display. At the very top, we found ourselves on a terrace, where we gazed at the picturesque Hakusan mountain range nearby.
Another must-visit is the Echizen Great Buddha, which features Japan’s largest indoor Buddha statue. The 17-meter-tall bronze Buddha was a sight to behold, surrounded by hundreds of smaller statues in a grand ceremonial hall. There’s also the five-story pagoda, which at 75 meters high, is the tallest of its kind in Japan.
For those looking for a more intimate and unique experience, consider joining a traditional tea ceremony at Mikuni Minato in Sakai City. In a real slice-of-life moment, our friends were entertained by a gracious elderly lady, who played the shamisen for us. Much like the warm cups of matcha in our hands and the simple sweets that came with them, she made us feel right at home.
If you feel like driving off to see how this prefecture rose into prominence at the height of Japan’s industrialization, then perhaps going to Tsuruga is for you. There. we found, again, our friend Mr. Dinosaur, posing in front of Tsuruga Brick Warehouse, which was built sometime in 1905 to store petroleum products. Today, it houses a restaurant and a museum.
We also learned during our visit that the Port of Tsuruga also became a safe haven for some 6,000 jews who found respite on these shores during the holocaust, thus earning it a well-deserved namesake “The Port of Humanity.”
Recollections of survivors and their relatives have been gathered and displayed at the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum. While taking pictures was not allowed, we found ourselves leaving with a lump on our throats. It was a somber ending to our great Fukui adventure.
Sights and soul-searching aside, Fukui is also home to a plethora of industries. And during our stay, we got up close and personal with several amazing craftsmen, entertainers and chefs, who gave us a slice of life this side of Japan. But that is for another story!
To know more about Fukui, visit japan.travel/en/ph/.
